Thursday, September 17, 2020

Princess tutu dress

 

Materials:

I/5.5mm or whatever size you need for gauge.

    Gauge: 9 DC ch 1 sets or 18 dcs = 4 inches. 8 rows of Bodice Row  2 and 3 repeat= 4 inches.

Worsted weight/4 yarn

Buttons

Tulle

Ribbon or lacing to tie the back

 

Terms you need to know:

 

Ch: Chain

Sl st: Slip Stitch

DC: Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

SC: Single Crochet

FPHDC: Front Post Half Double Crochet. Just like a HDC except instead of inserting your hook through the previous row’s stitch’s top loop when you yarn over to do the HDC, move your hook to the front of the row facing you, insert it behind the post of the stitch in the previous row, yarn over, pull the loop up, yarn over and pull loop through all loops on hook.

BPHDC: Back Post Half Double Crochet: Just like FPHDC except you move your hook tothe back of the row facing you.

HDC2TOG: A decrease stitch. This is done across two stitches and for this is used as a way to extra attach the straps to the bodice. Yarn over, insert hook through 1st st, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through 1st two loops on hook but not the 3rd. Yarn over, insert hook into 2nd st, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook.

Pattern:

Skirt:

Worked from the bottom to the top.




Row 1: Ch 96 (or however many you need to achieve the size you want adding or subtracting chains in counts of 2).

Row 2: DC in back/bottom loop of 4th ch from hook (1st 4 chs count as 1st DC, Ch 1). *Skip next ch, DC in back/bottom loop of next ch, ch 1* Repeat from * to * across. (Your last st should be a DC not a chain and you should have 48 DCs including the first 4 chs, or half of your ch count if you chained more or less than 96) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2. *HDC in ch 1 space, Ch 1. Skip next st.* Repeat from * to * across until last ch 1 space. HDC in ch 1 space, then HDC in 3rd ch from the start of the last row. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as 1st HDC, Ch 1). *Skip next st, HDC in ch 1 space. Ch 1.* Repeat from * to * across until last ch 1 space. HDC in ch 1 space and HDC in top of ch 2 from previous row (row 3). Turn.

Row 5: Ch 2. *HDC in ch 1 space, Ch 1. Skip next st.* Repeat from * to * across until last ch 1 space. HDC in ch 1 space, then HDC in ch 2 from previous row (row 4). Turn.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 until you get the length of the skirt you want ending on a repeat of Row 5.

Last Row of Skirt: Ch 2 (counts as SC, ch 1) *SSC in ch 1 space, Ch 1. Skip next st.* Repeat from * to * across until last ch 1 space, then sc in 3rd ch from start of last row. Turn do not cut and tie off unless switching colors. Continue on to Bodice Pattern.

 

Bodice:

 

Worked from Bottom to the top from the last row of the skirt.

 

Row 1: Ch 2.  Skip st directly below ch 2. HDC in every st and ch 1 space across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Skip st directly below ch 2. HDC in next 45 st (First ch 2 counts as first HDC so including that you should have 46 HDCs or half of what your original chain count was). FPHDC on next 2 sts. HDC across the rest of the row and HDC into top of ch 2. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2. Skip st directly below ch 2. HDC across until you reach the 2 FPHDCs. BPHDC once on each. HDC the rest of the way across and HDC into top of ch 2. Turn.

4-12: Repeat rows 2 and 3. (If you think the bodice is long enough before you reach row 12, move on to the straps but make sure you end on a row with an BPHDC).

 

Straps:

 

Using stitch markers (or a piece of different color yarn) and with the right side of the dress facing you (the FPHDC facing you), from the right FPHDC, but not including it, count 11 stitches over and place a stitch marker. From the Left FPHDC, count 10 stitches over and place a stitch marker.

 

Row 1: Ch 2. Skip st directly below ch 2. HDC in next 3 sts. *Ch 1, Skip next st, HDC in next st* Repeat from * to * 5 times so you have 5 button holes for the straps. (If you want more button holes repeat from * to * a few more times.) HDC in next st and every following st until you reach your st markers (20 sts unless you’ve made the pattern bigger or smaller or made more button holes). HDC into the st where your st marker is. **Ch 39 (or however many you need to reach the other side comfortably plus 2). HDC in back/bottom loop of 3rd ch from hook. HDC in back/bottom loop of each ch all the way down to the 1st ch you made. HDC2TOG in st your stitch marker is (or was if you removed it) and the next st.** HDC in each st across until other st marker. Repeat from ** to **. HDC in next 20 sts (or however many you did earlier from the button holes to the 1st strap). Repeat the * to * pattern 5 times. HDC the rest of the way across. Cut and tie off.

 

Sew button onto end of strap.

Add buttons to back of dress or use ribbon, laces, or some sort of string as lacing to tie up the back how you like. 

Add tulle to skirt mesh. Bottom most row will take 2 pieces of tulle per DC post.

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

Dragon Skin and Scales Scarf


It's been ridiculously cold here and this year I found myself lacking the appropriate scarves for the occasion. I have a lovely long and thick tunisian crocheted red scarf that has served me well over the years since I made it. However, it's a bit too thick and long to comfortably wear with my new winter coat. So that means only one thing: I have to make more scarves for myself and I have.

I've made two new scarves for myself and both pay tribute to two of my geeky nerdy loves: Dragons and Harry Potter.

This pattern is all about the former: Dragons.

I love dragons. They are hands down my favorite mythical animal and what better for a cold and blustery winter day than to have a dragon scale scarf?

This wasn't my original intent when I went to Hobby Lobby and picked up 2 skeins of I Love This Yarn! in Teal Stonewash.  I simply liked the yarn. It's beautiful, super soft, and I wanted a scarf made from it. Searching for patterns led me to start a few and, not satisfied with them, pull the work and start over until I resolved to make up my own.
My camera is MIA and not fantastic but I have provided some guide photos for the numbering of the DCs the best I could with my phone's camera and tablet's camera when I could get it working. The guide photos are done using a light blue Red Heart yarn because it's easier to see the stitches in that color but the finished product is in Teal Stonewash.

The main body of the scarf is meant to be viewed from the side/when it's worn around your neck and the ends are topped with two small pieces of alligator stitch that are crocheted on after making the main scarf. You can choose to use them, leave them off, or do a simple fringe on the end of your scarf.

Materials:

504 yards of worsted weight yarn
5.5mm/I crochet Hook.
5 mm/H crochet Hook

Terms:
YO: Yarn over
St(s): Stitch(es)
Sl St: Slip Stitch
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet
TC: Treble Crochet
BPSC: Back Post Single Crochet
FPHDC: Frotnt Post Double Crochet
FPDC2TOG: Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together.

Pattern:

SCARF

Note: Do NOT work the st at the base of ch 3 or ch 4. It does not count as a stitch unless otherwise noted. The chain itself is the stitch

With 5.5mm hook Ch 265

Row 1: Starting in 5th ch from hook DC *Skip next ch DC in next st* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same space. *TR in skipped ch below making sure that the ch 1 is behind the TR you are making, sc in DC* Repeat from * to * across. The last TR of the row is worked into what was the 4th ch from the hook at the start of the previous row. The last SC is worked into what was the 2nd ch from the hook at the start of the previous row. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, Sc in same space. Sc in next st. *Ch1. Skip next st, sc in next 2 st.* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, skip next st and 3 DC in ch 1 space. *Skip next 2 sts, 3 DC in ch 1 space* Repeat from * to * across and DC in last st of row. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same space. *Sc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts* Repeat from * to * across, sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, Sc in same space. *FPDC2TOG on the 1st and 3rd DCs of 3 DC cluster (DCs 1&3 in guide pictures) in the row below the previous one, 2 sc in ch2 space behind FPDC2TOG, move to the next cluster* Repeat from * to * across. Sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st. *Ch 1, skip next st. BPSC around FPDC2TOG from previous row. SC in next st* Repeat from * to * across. SC in last st of row. Turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, Skip next st and 3 DC in ch 1 space. *Skip next 2 sts, 3 DC in ch 1 space* Repeat from * to * across. DC in last st of row. Turn.
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in same space. Ch 1, skip next st *Sc in next st, ch 2, skip next 2 sts* Repeat from * to * across until end. Instead of ch 2, ch 1, skip the next st and sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 10: Ch 1, Sc in same space. SC ch 1 space, *FPDC2TOG on the 1st and 3rd DCs of the 3 DC cluster (just like row 6) in the row below the previous one, 2 sc in ch 2 space, move to the next 3 DC cluster*. Repeat from * to * across until end. Instead of 2 sc in ch 2 space, 1 sc in the ch 1 space and sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in same space. *BPSC around
FPDC2TOG from previous row, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st* repeat from * to * across. Sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 12: Ch 3, *3 DC in ch 1 space. Skip next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * across. DC in last st of row. Turn.
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in same space. *Ch 2, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * across. Sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 14: Ch 1, Sc in same space. SC 2 times in ch 2 space, *FPDC2TOG on the 1st and 3rd DCs of the 3 DC cluster (just like row 6) in the row below the previous one, sc 2 times in the next ch 2 space*. Repeat from * to * across. Sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in same space. *BPSC around FPDC2TOG from previous row, sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st* repeat from * to * across. Sc in last st of row. Turn.
Row 16: Ch 4. Skip next st *DC in next st, ch 1, skip next st.* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in same space. *TR in skipped st below making sure that the ch 1 of the previous row is in FRONT of the TR you are making, sc in DC* Repeat from * to * across. Turn.
Row 18: Ch 2. *HDC on the TR below, FPHDC around the post of the SC in the row below.* Repeat from * to * across until last st. If you are following along with the pattern's written length you should end on an sc with a DC below it. FPHDC on the sc, move hook behind the stitch you just made and 2sc in the sc to form the corner and turn scarf 90 degrees to sc 17 times down the short side of the scarf as evenly as possible. SC 3 times in the corner and turn 90 degrees again. HDC in the 1st ch on the bottom, repeat * to * across except where you FPHDC around the post of the sc below, FPHDC around the bottom of the DC below. FPHDC and 2 SC in last st/corner and turn 90 degrees again to evenly sc 17 times up the other short end of the scarf. When you get to the corner, 2 SC and FPHDC on then join with a sl st to first hdc of the row. Bind off.
DC Posts rotated to dc down 2nd post to form scale


SCALE FRINGE (Optional)

MAKE TWO

With 5.mm hook CH 21.

Row 1: DC in third chain from hook. *ch 1, skip 2 sts, 2 DC in next st * to * to end of row. Turn.



Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first FPDC), FPDC 4 times around post of first DC of the pair. Ch 1. Rotate the work 90 degrees so that now you can work on the second dc of the pair. FPDC 5 times around same post. Ch 1. Turn your work back so it's facing you. You should see the first "Scale" laying flat, pointed side down, facing you.*Skip next DC pair, FPDC 5 times around post of First DC of the DC pair. Ch 1. Rotate the work 90 degrees so that now you can work on the second dc of the pair. FPDC 5 times around the same post.* Repeat from * to * until end of row.Turn.
Complete Fringe Scale
Row 3: Sl St into the middle of the last scale you made. Ch 3. Dc in same space. *Ch 2. 2DC by inserting your hook through the middle of the 2DC below and the ch 1 space of the scales below each DC. Ch 2. 2 DC in the space of the scale below*. Repeat from * to * until end. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1. Skip first DC pair. *FPDC 5 times around post of 1st DC of the pair. Ch 1. Rotated the work 90 degrees as in Row 1, FPDC 5 times around second post of the pair. Ch 1. Skip next DC Pair*. Repeat from * to * until end. Sl st in last DC pair. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 3. Dc in same space. *Ch 2. 2DC by inserting your hook through the middle of the 2DC below and the ch 1 space of the scales below each DC. Ch 2. 2 DC in the space of the scale below*. Repeat from * to * until end. Turn.
 2DC through 2DC below and Ch 1 space below
Rows 6-17: Repeat Rows 2-5
Row 18: Sl St into the middle of the last scale you made. Ch 1. 2 Sc in same space. *3 Sc by inserting your hook through the middle of the 2DC below and the ch 1 space of the scales below each DC. 3 Sc in the space of the scale below*. Repeat from * to * until last scale, 2 Sc in ch 1 space of last scale. Bind off.

To assemble, take the scale fringe and main scarf and put the two right sides of both pieces together with the last row of the scale fringe up against one of the short ends of the scarf and single crochet them together. Repeat for the other side.
2DC in space of scale below.

Sunday, December 17, 2017

Flower Bottom Coin Purse


It's been a while since I've posted any patterns. Mostly because I've been busy and forgot to put them up.

Anyway, this is a pattern for a little coin purse. I made a new purse for myself and because I chose to forego the coin pocket (since it only collected everything but coins) and still needed something to collect all my change in without overloading my purse I made up a pattern for a little coin purse since I didn't find any existing patterns I liked.
Front View.
Bottom of the bag

Materials:
3 3/8inch purse clasp
Worsted weight yarn
4.25 mm hook

Terms(US Terms):

Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip stitch
SC: Single Crochet
HDC: Half Double Crochet
DC: Double Crochet.
TR: Treble Crochet

Pattern: 

Ch 5 and join to 1st chain with sl st to form loop

Round 1: Sc 12 times into loop. Join.

Round 2: *Ch 3. Sc into next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. Join. You should have 6 ch 3 loops.

Round 3: *Sl st into ch 3 loop, sc, 2 hdc, dc, ch 1, dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st. In same loop. Sl st in sc. Repeat from * around. Join.

Round 4: *Sl st in next stitch, Sc 2 hdc, 2dc, 1 tr, ch 2, 1 tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, evenly up and down the side of the first petal.  Repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off.

Round 5: Join with sl st in any of the ch 2 spaces at the top of a petal. Ch 2. Sc into ch 2 loop. *In back loops only, sc in next 4 sts, skip next 5 stitches, sc into back loop of next st, sc in back loops of next 3 sts. Sc ch 1, sc in ch 2 space. Repeat from * around. Join.

Round 6: Ch 5 (1st ch forms sc), *skip next 2 sts. Sc in next st. Ch 3, skip next 4 sts, Ch 4, sc into ch 1 space, ch 4. Repeat from * around. Join to 3rd ch of first ch 6 with sl st.

Round 7: Ch 6 (1st 3 chs form dc), *sc into top of next ch 3 loop, Ch 3, skip next loop and sc into one after that. ch 3, Dc in sc. Ch 3. Repeat from * around. Join to 3rd ch of first ch 6 with sl st.

Round 8: Sl st into loop, *ch 3, skip next loop, ch 3, sc into next ch 3 loop. Repeat from * around.Join.

Round 9: Sl st into middle of next loop. *Ch 3, Sc into next loop. Repeat from * around. Join.

Round 10-12: Repeat Round 8

Round 13: Ch 1, *Sc 3 times in ch 3 loop, skip sc. Repeat from * around. Join.

Round 14-15: Ch 1, * Sc in Sc. Repeat from * around. Join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

I created a liner for the coin purse out of fabric and I'll be the first to admit I am not the person to ask for a sewing tutorial. Attaching the finished purse to the clasp frame was a little finicky for me as it was the first time doing it but overall it was easy as all you need to do is hand sew the purse to the frame with some heavy thread, light yarn, or I used left over cross-stitch floss.

Hope you enjoy the pattern!

Thursday, February 12, 2015

Arrow Cable Scarf


I wanted to crochet my dad a scarf for his birthday. He likes scarves but is very particular about them. He likes them long and wide. Searching for a pattern to suit my father was a bit difficult so in the end I just made one up and he loved it.

This pattern is worked in long rows to better determine the width of the scarf. 10" wide 104" long and it works up quite quickly.

Here is the pattern, if there are any mistakes just let me know. It took a while for me to get the pattern up do to trying to get it written down right.

Hook: K/10.5/6.5mm
Yarn: Worsted, 4 weight 12.2 oz 600-650 yds

Key:

Terms:
Blo: Back loops only.
Yo: Yarn over
St: stitch

Basic stiches:
Ch: Chain
SC: single crochet
DC: Double crochet

Special Stitches:
Lx: 1/2 dc left cross
Rx: 2/1 dc right cross

Special stitch explanation:

Lx: Skip 1 sc, yarn over and dc in next two sc's, with hook in front of the first two sts, go back to skipped sc and dc into it. Don't make the diagonal dc too tight and make sure that it crosses in front of the two straight dc's.
Rx: Skip 2 sc, dc in 3rd dc, go back to first skipped sc, with the hook behind the first stitch, dc into the skipped sc, then repeat for the 2nd skipped sc, making sure the diagonal is in front of the two straight dc's.

Foundation Row: Ch 281

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and sc in each ch across (280 stitches), turn

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in blo of every sc all the way across, turn

Row 5: Ch 2, skip first st from 2ch, Lx all the way across, dc in last st of row, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in both loops of every st all the way across.

Row 7: Ch 2, skip first st from 2ch, Rx all the way across, dc in last st of row, turn.

Rows 8-10: Repeat Rows 2-4

Row 11: Ch 2, skip first st from 2ch, *Rx, then Lx, and repeat from * until end of row and dc in last stitch of row, turn

Row 12: Ch 2, skip first st from 2ch, *Lx, then Rx, and repeat from * until end of row and dc in last stitch of row, turn

Rows 13-15: Repeat Rows 2-4

Rows 16-18: Repeat Rows 5-7

Rows 19-21: Repeat Rows 2-4

Finish: Sc all the way around scarf if preferred.

Notes: If there are any questions or confusions don’t hesitate to ask and I will try to get back as soon as possible.
---Note Edit: If you're coming from Ravelry and find difficulty with the pattern, comment here or message me on Ravelry. It'll notify me of it much faster than if I'm checking the sticky notes on the pattern page, which I didn't know existed until recently.


Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Dual Layered Flower Applique

This pattern was first published on my Tumblr account as I didn't have a Blogger account yet.

The link to that can be found here: Click



Key:

Ch = Chain
St= Slip Stich
Sc=Single Crochet
HDC= Half Double Crochet
DC= Double Crochet
TR= Treble Crochet


Start:


Foundation Chain: Chain 11 and join 11th chain to 1st with a slip stitch

Round 1: Chain 9 and sc into 2nd chain from hook. Chain 10 and sc into 3rd chain. Alternate 9 and 10 chains all around making 10 “petal” loops. Five 9-chain or “short” loops and five 10-chain or “long” loops.

Round 2: sc *2 hdc 3 dc 3 tr ch 1 3 tr 3 dc 2 hdc sc st into central loop of the first “short” loop then, sc into main central loop, then sc onto first “long” petal loop, 2 hdc 3 dc 4 tr ch1 4 tr 3 dc 2 hdc sc, sc into main central loop, then sc into next “short” petal loop. Repeat from * all the way around until end of last petal loop. Sc into central loop once more then connect to first sc of first petal loop using st and tie off to switch color if desired.

Round 3: Ch 2, then in the space under the first petal loop, where it connects to the foundation chain, 3 hdc, ch1 and 3 hdc in the next space of the next petal all the way around and connect to the 2nd chain loop with a st.

Round 4: Ch 1. starting at the first sc of the first petal loop, *sc along the ed ge of the petals until reaching the ch1 space. Hdc, dc, hdc in the space, then sc along the remaining loops of the petal. When you get to the sc between the petal loops, sc into it, ch 3 then sc into it again before moving onto next petal and sc along until getting to the ch1 space. Hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc in the space, then sc along the petal until the next sc space, sc in the space, ch 3, sc and repeat from * all the way around. Attach to the first sc in round with a st and tie off to switch colors.

Round 5: Sc into any of the ch three loops to attach new color, 2hdc in that loop, 3hdc in the next loop and continue all the way around and connect last hdc to 3rd ch loop with st and tie off.

Finish: Using a yarn needle, weave in the ends and then tack, or sew, the “long” petals together all the way around, making sure they are up,then do the same for the “short” petals making sure they are down.

Notes: If there are any questions or confusions don’t hesitate to ask and I will try to get back as soon as possible.
---Note Edit: If you're coming from Ravelry and find difficulty with the pattern, comment here or message me on Ravelry. It'll notify me of it much faster than if I'm checking the sticky notes on the pattern page, which I didn't know existed until recently.

Crochet Patterns of Crochet Creature

Hello! I figured to put in the first post as a sort of place holder as well as very short introduction.

Here you will find a collection of my published crochet patterns. Currently there are not that many but that number will no doubt grow.

I am also on Ravelry.